Hike the Heights of San Felipe del Agua Under a Setting Sun
There’s no better way to take in Oaxaca’s spectacular sunsets than from Cerro de San Felipe del Agua’s summit. Just a 15-minute drive from Centro, this is an accessible and well worthwhile evening hike to add to your Oaxaca must-do list.
Escape the buzz and buildings of Oaxaca’s city center for a breath of fresh air in the outdoor playground behind San Felipe del Agua. Thanks to an abandoned highway project, the road hugging the base of Cerro de San Felipe is entirely car-free, making for an even more tranquil hike in Oaxaca’s mountainous outskirts with just the sounds of birdsong and wind-rattled leaves filling the air.
The hike itself is a quick one at less than an hour ascent, and that’s with plenty of stopping to take in the surrounding views or to catch your breath. Though you could make the trek up the hill anytime of day, sunset from summit is a truly special experience full of panoramic views and a quick enough descent to be back at the base before it gets too dark. Throw this experience in as an ad-hoc adventure to round out your day and/or stay in Oaxaca City. You won’t regret it.
The Trail
The trail is well-defined, so getting lost is not likely. From Libramiento Norte, the road that hugs the mountain’s base, just aim for the electricity pylon at the top of the hill and you’ll find your way to summit. This hike is not challenging either, though it can be steep at times. At your own pace, follow the dirt path as it winds its way through farmland, wild agave, flowering trees and forest and don’t forget to look up on occasion at the views of the expansive valley and its peaks, including a glimpse of Monte Alban and other easy-to-pick-out nearby attractions.
How to Experience Sunset on Cerro de San Felipe del Agua
The Tour Option
Join flora and fauna enthusiast Margaux of Vamos o Que? Tours for a guided hike up Cerro de San Felipe del Agua just before sunset, making stops along the way to appreciate the panoramic valley views, the wild and flowering agave, and the birdlife through her binoculars. Brittany-born, Margaux infuses a bit of her French roots into the experience too by dishing up homemade crepes at summit alongside a steaming cup of hot chocolate or tea. Soak in the colorful skies and spectacular scenery from your summit perch as the sun sinks below the horizon, then descend the mountain by flashlight in the company of new friends and with the memory of a Oaxacan sunset you’ll never forget.
TOUR DETAILS
Recommended Local Tour Operator: Vamos o Que? Tours
Price: 600 pesos per person (discounts available for large groups)
Duration: 3.5 hours (about an hour and a half of hiking roundtrip)
How Often? Tours depart every Wednesday and Saturday at 4:30pm
What's Included?:
- Bilingual guide
- Transportation
- Binoculars for birdwatching
- French crepes & hot chocolate or tea at summit
Reserve your spot by contacting Margaux at +52 322 156 4804 on WhatsApp or by sending her a message on the Vamos o Que? Tours Facebook page.
The Do-It-Yourself Option
For a visual point of reference, this is the concrete bridge just next to the trailhead. The trail roughly begins at the telephone pole.
Grab a bus heading north at any of the stops on Piño Suarez. Just be sure to ask the driver if the bus does in fact go all the way up to San Felipe del Agua. It’s about a 15-20 minute bus ride to this residential community north of the city or, if you’re more ambitious, it’s an hour walk from the center to the trailhead on Libramiento Norte. From the trailhead, just follow the dirt path up the mountain with the sky-scraping electricity pylon as your point of reference for summit. For an unobstructed sunset view, from the tower, follow the trail towards the city-facing side of the mountain until you see a clearing on your right - about a 5-10 minute walk from the pylon. Whether you walk, bike, take the bus, or drive yourself, here’s a pin for where the hike begins. It’s just left of a small concrete bridge. There are multiple trailheads along Libramiento Norte that all lead to summit, so you can follow any of these dirt trails that branch off of Libramiento Norte and have a lovely hike. It’s difficult to get lost with the city and that electricity pylon always there to orient you. On the walk back down to the city, I highly recommend grabbing dinner or a meal at Monica Restaurant Hindu in San Felipe del Agua if you like Indian food.
Travel Resources
Accommodations: When I’m not booking directly with the accommodation (which is sometimes cheaper), I often use Booking.com, Trivago, and Hostelworld.com. Agoda is also a great tool when searching for longer stay options at discounted rates that include hotels and private homes.
Tours: While I personally prefer do-it-yourself travel most of the time, sometimes it’s just better with a guide. In those cases, I typically use Viator, GetYourGuide, EatWith, and Airbnb Experiences. For self-guided audio tours, I recommend WeGoTrip.
Flights: My favorite flight aggregator tool is WayAway and my favorite tool for finding out about the best flight deals is FareDrop.
Shuttle Services: My go-to is Bookaway. They operate in more than 90 countries and work with only the top, traveler-reviewed suppliers in each country.
Rental Cars: While I more often take public transport when I travel, there have been destinations that are better explored by renting a car (like Costa Rica and Europe/UK for example). In these instances, I recommend starting your car rental search on Discover Cars. They compare car rental deals across more than 500 suppliers, including Hertz, Enterprise, Avis, and more.
Travel Insurance: If you’re a full-time nomad like me, I recommend SafetyWing. Look into their Nomad Travel Medical Insurance and Nomad Health Insurance (a full-fledged health insurance that covers your emergency and non-emergency medical needs worldwide, including in your country of residence). If you’re not a full-time traveler, I’d recommend Squaremouth. It aggregates your insurance options across more than 22 providers and offers what I’ve found to be the best rates.
Travel ATM & Credit Cards: If you travel often and like perks like airport lounge access and annual travel credit, I recommend the Capital One Venture X credit card that includes Priority Pass, a $300 annual travel credit, and covers your Global Entry or TSA Precheck fee. For a fee-free ATM card that reimburses you at the end of every month for any incurred ATM fees, I recommend opening a Schwab Bank Investor Checking Account.
VPN: I recommend Surfshark. It’s one of the best and most budget-friendly VPN services out there.
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