Ometepe, Nicaragua
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This two-volcano tropical island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua served as the turning point in my adventure through Nicaragua. It was under its cacao trees, bumping along its dirt roads, and deep within its peaceful mangroves that I realized just how rich this trip was becoming. People, place, and possibility were continuously colliding in all of the best ways, and Ometepe wanted to make sure I knew it. Three days on the island stretched to a week as I all but moved into El Pital Chocolate Paradise, syncing with its lakefront rhythms of yoga mornings, afternoon cacao ceremonies, and often an adventure or two whenever I was lucky enough to meet someone willing to let me hop on the back of their scooter. There were so many moments of deep sighs of bliss and the pervasive feeling of wanting to be nowhere else but here. This island caught in a time where dinner is fished from the lake, laundry done in the river, and riding horseback is transport not pastime, showed me that paradise isn’t lost. It’s right here in the presence an island like Ometepe can’t help but pull you into. Here are a few foottracks to follow should you make it to Ometepe’s myth-like shores.
Restaurants
Cafe Campestre
This farm-to-table restaurant in Balgue offers a diverse menu of fusion cuisine, ranging from shawarma to curry and excellent local coffee.
BUStavo Food Bus
BUStavo Food Bus offers a middle eastern-style menu that also happens to be veg-friendly. Go for shawarma, falafel wraps, and fresh smoothies or homemade vegan gelato.
Pizzeria Mediterranea Bar Ristorante
This popular Italiano-run pizzeria is worth the wait (if there is one). The outdoor ambiance is as good as the pizzas and pastas on the menu.
Things to Do
Kayak the Mangroves at Playa Mangos
You can either rent a kayak or hire a guide to paddle out to the mangroves just near Playa Mangos. This is an amazing activity to do any time of day, but sunset is prime. You’ll spot all sorts of birdlife and maybe a caiman if you’re lucky, but really the serenity of the mangroves alone is worth the trip.
If you’re looking for a tour, check out this option on Viator:
Private Kayaking Experience (from $33USD) - Book Here
Climb the Volcanoes
You have two options: you can hike Concepcion and/or Maderas. Both are about an 8 to 9-hour commitment and highly strenuous, but worth it for the views at the top. Though these hikes can be done without a guide, if you’d like the extra support, here are a few vetted tour options:
Climb Concepcion with Green Expeditions (from $50USD with lunch included) - Book Here
Climb Concepcion with Happy Tours (from $35USD) - Book Here
Climb Maderas with Happy Tours (from $35USD) - Book Here
Visit the San Ramon Waterfall
Besides the $3 entrance fee, this Ometepe experience is practically free. It’s about a 2-hour hike from the trail’s start at the Biological Station and it will get your heart pumping while testing your footing on some rocky stretches, but the best part is that a refreshing waterfall dip awaits at the end of the trail. You may want to consider renting an ATV, motorcycle, or scooter to access this spot and many others during your stay in Ometepe. Public transportation is practically non-existent and taxis can be hard to come by.
Cool Off in the Pools at Ojo de Agua
Another affordable thing to do in Ometepe is visit the natural spring pools of Ojo de Agua. Admission is $3USD and that grants you access to the site’s two underground river-fed pools, sun chairs, and the on-site restaurant with poolside service.
Attend a Wellness Event
Be it at El Pital, Zopilote, or InanItah, there’s bound to be a yoga class, breathwork session, cacao ceremony, temazcal, or kirtan happening during your stay in Ometepe. Some events are free to guests, others are donation-based, and the rest may require a reservation. Click the names above to reach out and get their latest schedule of events.
Sign up for El Pital’s Chocolate Tour
On this highly acclaimed tour, visit El Pital’s cacao farm while learning about the history of this sacred plant. You’ll also learn the process of how chocolate is made and get to do a chocolate tasting.
Price: $20USD
Duration: 2 hours
Check Availability (not an affiliate link)
Hostels & Hotels
Located in Balgue, right on the lakeshore, El Pital offers a variety of dorm and luxury private cabaña options for guests. There’s an on-site vegan restaurant and regularly scheduled events guests can attend. Dorms start at $12USD and privates start at $40USD.
El Zopilote is a family-run permaculture farm and rustic hostel nestled inland in the jungles of Balgue, Ometepe. They offer everything from private huts to dorms, campsites, and even hammocks. There are plenty of free activities and courses available for guests. Dorms start at $9USD per night and privates start at $20USD per night.
Though I didn’t stay here, I met many backpackers who did and who loved it. Also in Balgue, La Urraca Loca is beautiful, clean, and does a great a job at creating a sense of community amongst the guests. Dorms come with mosquito nets and fans and start at $11USD per night.
Literally located on the slopes of the Maderas Volcano, Totoco Eco-Lodge is a gorgeous mid-range and off-grid lodging option on Ometepe that comes with a swimming pool, epic views, and an on-site restaurant and bar. You’ll stay in a private ensuite bungalow with mosquito nets, fans, and breakfast included. Prices start at $65USD per night.
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