Tips & Recommendations for an El Tránsito Trip to Remember
El Transito is a no-frills surf stopover where the main attraction is the waves. Here’s a guide to all the best bites, stays, and things to do in the unassuming Nicaraguan surf town of El Transito.
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It was one offhand conversation while checking out of my hostel in Popoyo that put me in the north Nicaragua surf town of El Tránsito. I was told it had a lot of similarities to Popoyo - small town, cool people, good waves, refreshingly simple. I can confirm all of that is true, but in such a different way than how Popoyo brought those qualities together. Whereas Popoyo, for me, felt like a community brought together by place, with surf as a side, El Tránsito felt like a community brought together by surf, with place as a side. El Tránsito is where I, for the first time, felt part of a greater global surf community. It happened in the little moments - the applause from other surfers in the water when I caught the wave of the day, the generosity of so many who shared their time and surf experience with me, and the way literally everyone I met guided me as to where in the world I might want to surf next. It was also the surfhouse-style lodging that did it for me. From Nimbu Surfhouse to Solid Surf Camp & Hostel, I felt literally and immediately at home, be it around the dinner table, in a rocking chair on the porch, or falling asleep next to 5 others in the dorm. At the end of the day, El Tránsito is a town you don’t weather the overheated and breaking down chicken bus for unless you’ve come to surf, and because of that you’re “in” if you do. El Tránsito will forever be the place I joined the surf family and felt like it too. While the place is the side in El Tránsito, there are a few restaurant, cafe, and attraction gems worth pairing with your days surfing this beach town’s waves.
Restaurants & Cafes
El Oso
This open-air eatery at the end of town dishes up some great international cuisine, to include my personal supply of fresh-baked cinnamon rolls.
Surf Coffee
Perhaps the best cup of coffee in town, alongside a menu of nourishing and healthy surf fuel in a refreshingly air-conditioned space.
El Ancla Bar y Comedor
This is a beloved local spot with a rotating daily menu of cheap local cuisine, as well as some consistent fish and seafood-focused staples like breaded shrimp, fried fish, and seafood soup.
Olas Clandestinas
This beachfront bar and restaurant has a nice mix of local and international staples, including pizza and burgers, all served while you stare out at the surf and sunset.
Comedor Doña Urania
This unassuming spot has two things on the menu: chicken or fish. Snag one of their limited tables if you’re lucky and chow down on some home-cooked Nicaraguan classics for a great price.
Top Things to Do
Surf Lessons
No matter where you stay in El Transito, it’s likely your lodging grants you access to surfboards and surf instructors for a nominal fee. With the waves on your doorstep, this is a no-brainer thing to do in El Transito.
Tide Pools
Bookending the beach on both sides are some stunning tide pools, especially when the tide and sunset hour collide. Head north or south down the beach and snag your own private tide pool with your favorite company.
Hostels & Hotels
Nimbu Surfhouse
This lovely spot at a quiet end of the beach has a mix of private cabanas and one five-bed dorm room. They offer surf lessons, yoga classes, free breakfast, and the option to sign up for a daily dinner around the same table as your fellow guests.
Check Availability - Prices start at $29 per night
Solid Surf Camp and Hostel
This surf camp-style lodging offers a hard-to-beat package that includes surf lessons, board rentals, unlimited drinks during happy hour, and a daily breakfast and lunch for $50usd. You can book your stay in a private room, air-conditioned dorm, or dorm with fans.
Check Availability - Prices start at $16 per night
Bananoz Surf House
Technically the first surf house to exist on El Transito’s off-the-beaten-path shores, Bananoz Surf House is a family-run, laid-back surf house with just 4 private rooms and an open kitchen for guests to use during their stay. Coffee’s served every morning and there’s a great rooftop for relaxing and watching the waves, not to mention plenty of hammocks and spots to rest up between surf sessions.
Check Availability - Rooms start at $24 per night
Alive Beach House
Alive Beach House is a small beachfront surf and yoga stay in El Transito. Each of their 10 modern rooms come with ocean views and private bathrooms, including hot water showers. Breakfast is included and there’s an open-air yoga studio and on-site bar and restaurant serving nourishing, farm-fresh cuisine. You’ll also have access to Alive’s in-house surf pros for lessons and pointers throughout your stay, as well as a solid wifi connection for those working and traveling.
Check Availability - Rooms start at $85/night
How to Get To & From El Transito
By Public Transportation
Getting There
It’s a bit of a mission to arrive to El Transito by public transport, but definitely doable. I did it from Granada and it only required one bus change in Managua. Here are some instructions if you’re traveling from/through Managua or Leon to El Transito:
From Managua: Get yourself to Terminal ISRAEL where three direct buses for El Transito depart daily at 12pm, 1pm, and 2:50pm (worth verifying if these times are still accurate). The cost should be around 25-30 cordobas and maybe a bit more for your bag. It’s about a 2-hour journey from there to El Transito. Alternatively, you could depart from Mercado Oriental in Managua (see pin for exact location), which has buses departing Monday to Saturday at 11:30am, 12:30pm, and 2:20pm plus a Sunday bus at 11:30am.
From Leon: Hop on one of the buses (there are 2 daily) heading to Managua via the Carretera Vieja Leon and tell the driver you need to get off at KM 44. This will put you at the entrance of the road heading to El Transito. El Transito is still another 12km down the road. From there, you’ll catch the direct bus coming from Managua that will bring you to the center of El Transito. Just be sure to time your arrival at KM44 sometime before 4pm and in sync with the departures of the Managua buses listed above, as you’re not likely to catch a bus after that time. Also, try not to travel to or from El Transito on a Sunday as buses are limited to once daily.
Getting Out
To Managua: Direct buses to Managua depart Monday to Saturady at 5am, 6am, and 7am and Sunday at 6am only.
To Leon: You’ll need to hop on one of the buses headed for Managua from El Transito and ask to be dropped at KM44, where you’ll then cross the street and wait for the bus to Leon at the bus stop there.
By Taxi
If chicken buses, navigating a Managua market, and waiting on the side of a highway aren’t your preferred way to travel, there’s always a taxi that can take you, taking a 2+ hour journey and shortening it to 1 hour. Here’s what that should roughly cost from Managua and Leon:
From Managua & Airport: $50-70USD
From Leon: $50-70USD
I recommend coordinating your taxi through your hotel or hostel.
If you found this El Transito guide helpful and want to say thanks, consider using the links below to book your tours, hotels, trip insurance, and onward travel. Clicking and booking through the links on my site sends a bit back my way at no additional cost to you. Thanks for your support!
If you found this post helpful, one of the best ways to say thanks is by booking your hotels, transport, tours, and trip insurance through the links on my Travel Resources page or by clicking any of the trip-relevant links below. This sends a bit back my way at no additional cost to you and helps to keep this blog up and running. Thank you for your support!
Accommodations: Booking.com, HostelWorld, Trivago
Tours & Experiences: Viator, GetYourGuide, EatWith, TripAdvisor
Trains, Buses, & Transfers: Bookaway, 12Go, BusBud
Car Rentals: DiscoverCars.com
Trip Insurance: Squaremouth, WorldTrips
Learn Spanish: Rosetta Stone, Babbel, Pimsleur
What to Read Next
Nicaragua Foot Tracks
Ometepe Travel Guide: How & Where to Spend Your Time in Nicaragua's Myth-like Island Paradise
This Nicaraguan lake island caught in another time showed me that paradise isn’t lost and that magic is real. Here are a few foot tracks to follow, including restaurants, hotels, and things to do, when you’re inevitably lured to Ometepe’s mythical shores.
This entry may contain affiliate links. This means if you click a link in this post and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.
This two-volcano tropical island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua served as the turning point in my adventure through Nicaragua. It was under its cacao trees, bumping along its dirt roads, and deep within its peaceful mangroves that I realized just how rich this trip was becoming. People, place, and possibility were continuously colliding in all of the best ways, and Ometepe wanted to make sure I knew it. Three days on the island stretched to a week as I all but moved into El Pital Chocolate Paradise, syncing with its lakefront rhythms of yoga mornings, afternoon cacao ceremonies, and often an adventure or two whenever I was lucky enough to meet someone willing to let me hop on the back of their scooter. There were so many moments of deep sighs of bliss and the pervasive feeling of wanting to be nowhere else but here. This island caught in a time where dinner is fished from the lake, laundry done in the river, and riding horseback is transport not pastime, showed me that paradise isn’t lost. It’s right here in the presence an island like Ometepe can’t help but pull you into. Here are a few foottracks to follow should you make it to Ometepe’s myth-like shores.
Restaurants
Cafe Campestre
This farm-to-table restaurant in Balgue offers a diverse menu of fusion cuisine, ranging from shawarma to curry and excellent local coffee.
BUStavo Food Bus
BUStavo Food Bus offers a middle eastern-style menu that also happens to be veg-friendly. Go for shawarma, falafel wraps, and fresh smoothies or homemade vegan gelato.
Pizzeria Mediterranea Bar Ristorante
This popular Italiano-run pizzeria is worth the wait (if there is one). The outdoor ambiance is as good as the pizzas and pastas on the menu.
Things to Do
Kayak the Mangroves at Playa Mangos
You can either rent a kayak or hire a guide to paddle out to the mangroves just near Playa Mangos. This is an amazing activity to do any time of day, but sunset is prime. You’ll spot all sorts of birdlife and maybe a caiman if you’re lucky, but really the serenity of the mangroves alone is worth the trip.
If you’re looking for a tour, check out this option on Viator:
Private Kayaking Experience (from $33USD) - Book Here
Climb the Volcanoes
You have two options: you can hike Concepcion and/or Maderas. Both are about an 8 to 9-hour commitment and highly strenuous, but worth it for the views at the top. Though these hikes can be done without a guide, if you’d like the extra support, here are a few vetted tour options:
Climb Concepcion with Green Expeditions (from $50USD with lunch included) - Book Here
Climb Concepcion with Happy Tours (from $35USD) - Book Here
Climb Maderas with Happy Tours (from $35USD) - Book Here
Visit the San Ramon Waterfall
Besides the $3 entrance fee, this Ometepe experience is practically free. It’s about a 2-hour hike from the trail’s start at the Biological Station and it will get your heart pumping while testing your footing on some rocky stretches, but the best part is that a refreshing waterfall dip awaits at the end of the trail. You may want to consider renting an ATV, motorcycle, or scooter to access this spot and many others during your stay in Ometepe. Public transportation is practically non-existent and taxis can be hard to come by.
Cool Off in the Pools at Ojo de Agua
Another affordable thing to do in Ometepe is visit the natural spring pools of Ojo de Agua. Admission is $3USD and that grants you access to the site’s two underground river-fed pools, sun chairs, and the on-site restaurant with poolside service.
Attend a Wellness Event
Be it at El Pital, Zopilote, or InanItah, there’s bound to be a yoga class, breathwork session, cacao ceremony, temazcal, or kirtan happening during your stay in Ometepe. Some events are free to guests, others are donation-based, and the rest may require a reservation. Click the names above to reach out and get their latest schedule of events.
Sign up for El Pital’s Chocolate Tour
On this highly acclaimed tour, visit El Pital’s cacao farm while learning about the history of this sacred plant. You’ll also learn the process of how chocolate is made and get to do a chocolate tasting.
Price: $20USD
Duration: 2 hours
Check Availability (not an affiliate link)
Hostels & Hotels
Located in Balgue, right on the lakeshore, El Pital offers a variety of dorm and luxury private cabaña options for guests. There’s an on-site vegan restaurant and regularly scheduled events guests can attend. Dorms start at $12USD and privates start at $40USD.
El Zopilote is a family-run permaculture farm and rustic hostel nestled inland in the jungles of Balgue, Ometepe. They offer everything from private huts to dorms, campsites, and even hammocks. There are plenty of free activities and courses available for guests. Dorms start at $9USD per night and privates start at $20USD per night.
Though I didn’t stay here, I met many backpackers who did and who loved it. Also in Balgue, La Urraca Loca is beautiful, clean, and does a great a job at creating a sense of community amongst the guests. Dorms come with mosquito nets and fans and start at $11USD per night.
Literally located on the slopes of the Maderas Volcano, Totoco Eco-Lodge is a gorgeous mid-range and off-grid lodging option on Ometepe that comes with a swimming pool, epic views, and an on-site restaurant and bar. You’ll stay in a private ensuite bungalow with mosquito nets, fans, and breakfast included. Prices start at $65USD per night.
If you found this post helpful, one of the best ways to say thanks is by booking your hotels, transport, tours, and trip insurance through the links on my Travel Resources page or by clicking any of the trip-relevant links below. This sends a bit back my way at no additional cost to you and helps to keep this blog up and running. Thank you for your support!
Accommodations: Booking.com, HostelWorld, Trivago
Tours & Experiences: Viator, GetYourGuide, EatWith, TripAdvisor
Trains, Buses, & Transfers: Bookaway, 12Go, BusBud
Car Rentals: DiscoverCars.com
Trip Insurance: Squaremouth, WorldTrips
Learn Spanish: Rosetta Stone, Babbel, Pimsleur
What to Read Next
The Perfect Popoyo Itinerary: Insider Insight into Nicaragua’s Best Beach Town
Popoyo is full of subtle and not-so-subtle charms and a place that pulls you into its alternate universe quite quickly. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting this Nicaraguan surf town.
This entry may contain affiliate links. This means if you click a link in this post and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. Affiliate links are how I’m able to keep this blog going, so thank you for your support!
I visited Popoyo not once, but twice, in 2023. From the very onset, Popoyo had me hooked with its subtle and not-so-subtle charm, quickly becoming one of my favorite places I’ve ever visited. My first few hours in this Nicaraguan surf town included a fiery sunset under a string light-lit table at Viento Este Pizza (part of the laidback Escondite Pacifico) and an unexpected primer on the who, how, and what of Popoyo from a trio of Argentinian women who had been visiting for decades.
With their primer, I found my way on this stretch of Pacific sand, joining the surfers daily in Beginner Bay, wandering down the dusty streets to the only mini market on the Guasacate side of Popoyo for sunset beers, slices of fresh-baked banana bread, and cash with my fingers crossed that the cashier had it in her till (Popoyo’s an ATM-less and cash-only town FYI).
What I love about Popoyo is its omnipresent spirit of community, something you’ll notice days in, if not straight away. It’s a beach town of mainly surf-obsessed foreigners and yogis who willingly got stuck in its seriously tempting air of an alternate universe. If it doesn’t have you questioning why you’d ever leave or dreaming about when you can get here next, you might have missed something. Popoyo’s a special spot.
When you go, here’s where and how to spend your time in Popoyo, plus some of the practical details including how to arrive, get around, and restock on cash when you inevitably run out in this cash-only town.
Best Time to Visit Popoyo
I’ve visited Popoyo in both the wet and the dry season and found both to have their individual pros and cons. No matter what, expect it to be hot. The dry season extends from November through April and tends to be busier and full of life, while the wet season typically runs from May through October and can feel a bit sleepier, but this also means less crowded surf lineups and discounted rates at Popoyo’s hotels and hostels.
Surf Considerations
If you’re in Popoyo to surf, as most are, the best time to visit is during the dry season when the waves are at their most consistent. However, the biggest swells of the year tend to arrive during the first few months of the wet season. In general, Popoyo is a year-round surf destination, even for beginner surfers like me. Popoyo’s Beginner Bay, located next to Mag Rock, is where I stood up on my first green wave and it’s now my go-to spot to surf when nowhere else is working.
Turtle Nesting Season
If you’re interested in witnessing the turtles nesting, peak nesting season in Popoyo is typically from July to December. The best nesting grounds in the area are at Refugio de Vida Silvestre Río Escalante-Chacocente. Later in this post, I share more about the reserve and how to get there from Popoyo.
How to Get to Popoyo
Popoyo is not the easiest Nicaraguan destination to get to, but it’s not impossible and it’s certainly worth whatever hassle may be required. Both times I’ve visited, I arrived by a combination of taxi and chicken bus, with Rivas being the connection point between Popoyo and pretty much every other destination on Nicaragua’s Pacific-side tourist trail, be it Ometepe, Granada, or San Juan del Sur.
Here’s how I did it:
Step 1: Chicken Bus to Rivas
Whether you’re coming from Granada, San Juan del Sur, or Ometepe, there is likely a chicken bus headed to Rivas for you to hop on. This not-so-pretty hub is the unavoidable link between you and Popoyo if you’re looking to travel on the cheap. The chicken bus to Rivas should cost you no more than 50 Cordobas from Granada and 30 Cordobas from San Juan del Sur for a seat and perhaps as much for your bag too (yes, they will charge you for your bigger pack if it needs to be stored). Ask at your hotel or hostel for the latest schedule. There are usually multiple and regular departures each day. Beware of Sundays when some routes aren’t available at all.
Step 2: Private or Shared Taxi to Popoyo or Guasacate
It’s important to know whether your hotel is in Playa Popoyo or Playa Guasacate. If you get it wrong and say Popoyo when you really mean Guasacate, you may be in for an angry taxi driver who could charge you a few more cordobas for the mistake. The two beaches aren’t exactly the most direct to get between. The price for a taxi from Rivas to Popoyo should cost you no more than $30USD. If you can, round up a few other travelers in Rivas headed to Popoyo to cut your cost. The driver will likely still charge per head, but at a discounted rate. The journey by taxi between Rivas and Popoyo (see Rivas taxi contacts below) is roughly an hour to an hour and a half. In Rivas, beware of anyone trying to vector you into a taxi. It’s usually not going to be the best rate.
Rivas Taxi Contacts
Here are a few Rivas-based taxi contacts to save to your phone:
Yasmil Transportation +505 8673 4936
Travel Lopez +505 8635 5834
Pedro Vilchez Pereira +505 87117521 (personally used him and found him to be great!)
Alternative Option (Not Recommended)
Step 1: Chicken Bus to Rivas
Same instructions as above.
Step 2: Chicken Bus to Las Salinas/Tola (if staying on Playa Popoyo) or to El Astillero (if staying on Playa Guasacate)
The chicken bus to Las Salinas via Rivas runs more frequently, but there is no guarantee it will stop and pick you up in Rivas if the bus is already full. It does pass through Rivas frequently throughout the day. The schedule I have is 5:30am, 9:10am, 11am, 12:50pm, 2:30pm, 4:00pm, and 4:50pm, but you may want to verify locally. I do not know the going rate for this chicken bus, as I haven’t taken it myself.
If you’re heading to Playa Guasacate, you’ll want to be on the bus to El Astillero if you can. This bus runs less frequently, with just two departures a day. The schedule I have is 5:30am and 4:50pm. Please verify for yourself. This bus will drop you at the road into Guasacate, from there you can call a local taxi (see the How to Get Around section above for some local taxi contacts) or walk the 7km there, and mind you it will be a hot and dusty walk at that! Another option if you miss the El Astillero bus is to take the Las Salinas bus and then get a local taxi from there to Playa Guasacate.
Private Taxi or Shared Shuttle
Of course, you could also always get to Popoyo by private taxi or shared shuttle from wherever your starting point is and avoid all of this chicken bus hassle. Whenever available, I usually book a shared shuttle or private transport through Bookaway or 12Go, two reliable sites that aggregate vetted local transportation operators and that offer the added benefit of 24-hour live support should anything come up during your trip.
Explore Bookaway’s routes to/from Popoyo and beyond
Explore 12Go’s routes to/from Popoyo and beyond
For a private transfer or taxi, I recommend reaching out to any one of the Rivas-based taxi drivers listed above in the “Rivas Taxi Contacts” section, as many of them will do trips to/from Popoyo via Granada, Ometepe, or San Juan del Sur. Unfortunately, I do not know the pricing for a private transfer, but you can typically bank on it being about $50-70USD per trip.
How to Get Around in Popoyo
Popoyo has two sections of beach: Playa Popoyo and Playa Guasacate. Each one, due to the distance of beach (including a river crossing) between the two and the roundabout way to get from one to other by car, does tend to cause you to either eat, shop, and party on the same stretch of beach you sleep or be forced to pay for a taxi to get you between the two. If round-the-clock accessibility to both beaches is important to you, you could also rent a moto. This also opens up the possibility for you to easily visit the nearest ATM (a 20-minute drive away) and explore some of the nearby attractions like the nature reserve and hot springs on your own schedule (more on that in the Things to Do section).
Moto Rentals
Nicawaves (Playa Popoyo)
Nicawaves in Playa Popoyo rents motorcycles for $30 a day or $150 for the week. They come with surf racks to carry your board to the beach and two helmets. You can contact them directly at +877 521 0904 on WhatsApp.
Popoyo Moto Rentals (Playa Guasacate)
If you’re instead staying on Playa Guasacate, Popoyo Moto Rentals rents dirt bikes and semi-automatic scooters with optional surf racks, helmets, and roadside assistance included. I do not know their current pricing, but you can reach out to them directly at +505 7784 0787 on WhatsApp.
Local Taxi Contacts
While I was in Popoyo, Dan (+505 77432132) and Francisco (+505 81042098) were recommended to me as local, reliable taxi contacts. You can also ask your hotel or hostel to arrange a local taxi for you should you need it. And you might, as the nearest ATM is in Las Salinas, a 20-minute drive away. The rate for a taxi from one beach to the other was $10USD in 2023.
Where to Eat + Drink in Popoyo
As previously mentioned in this Popoyo travel guide, Popoyo is really two different beaches: Playa Popoyo and Playa Guasacate. For this reason, I’ve broken this section up by beach, naming a few spots in each that I’ve visited and loved.
Playa Popoyo
Magnific Rock Cafe at Magnific Rock
Dine on the rock with the best views in Popoyo before you. Their menu of seafood and classic American fare is always good with the freshest of ingredients hand-delivered from local farms or fished straight from the ocean you can see and hear from the dining room.
Bar & Restaurant at Popoyo Republic
The beach bar and restaurant at Popoyo Republic has a menu that ranges from pulled pork sandwiches to vegan spring rolls, all served in a usually lively atmosphere once the sun sets. They’re also known to regularly host live music events and parties in the same space.
Taberna 99 & Mesquite at 99 Surf Lodge
Taberna 99 and Mesquite are 99 Surf Lodge’s dining contributions to Popoyo. While Taberna 99’s claim to fame is its wood-fired pizza, Mesquite offers seats on the sand and sustainable cuisine made with seasonal ingredients and the promise of no meat from any factory farms.
Playa Guasacate
Viento Este Pizza at Escondite Pacifico
This is the spot on Playa Guasacate for wood-fired pizzas and calzones with a front-row seat to the magical Popoyo sunset, all with your toes in the sand. If they’re still serving it, don’t miss their maracuya cheesecake for dessert. This spot is only open on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday nights from 6pm to 10pm.
This Italian-owned beachfront cafe serves some of the best coffee in town, as well as smoothies, pasta, and paninis. Their hours are a bit funky, usually open Wednesday through Sunday only from 8am to 2pm. There is a good wifi connection here for any digital nomads reading this.
Curry & Noodle Nights at Red Pepper Popoyo
Red Pepper Popoyo as a dinner venue is only open twice a week to non-guests for their beloved Monday curry and Wednesday Indonesian noodle nights. Reservations are highly recommended as they only make enough for about 25 people each time. You can WhatsApp them at +505 8860 2750 to reserve your plate.
Best Hostels & Hotels in Popoyo
I’ve slept on both beaches in Popoyo and at a few different hotels and hostels on each beach. Here are my reviews of where I’ve stayed for your reference as you pick where to stay in Popoyo. Also, check out my more expanded post on Popoyo’s best hostels and hotels.
Playa Popoyo
On the Playa Popoyo side of town, I’ve stayed at both SUYO Cabañas and Magnific Rock. Of the two, SUYO Cabañas was by far the better option with its tranquil atmosphere, kitchen access, and privacy. The dorms at Magnific Rock, where I slept, are long overdue for an update and not the most comfortable, nor is there access to a kitchen, but the clifftop location overlooking Beginner Bay and access to their yoga and breathwork classes in the jaw-droppingly beautiful on-site yoga studio may just make up for it. There’s also a pool and a pretty tasty restaurant on-site.
SUYO Cabañas is a beachfront property composed of six private oceanfront cabañas, each with its own sink, porch, hammock, ceiling fan, and mosquito-netted king-size bed. You’ll also have access to a kitchen, drinking water, and a yoga deck and mat. The cabañas start at $70USD per night.
If you have the budget for it, splurge on a private room at Magnific Rock. That is where they shine thanks to their epic clifftop location and the views to prove it from each and every one of their ocean-facing private rooms. Dorms start at $15USD per night and privates start at $79USD per night. Keep in mind there is no kitchen access here, only a bar and restaurant.
Though I haven’t slept here myself, 99 Surf Lodge is an excellent option for a more high-end stay with not only the beach on your doorstep, but a restaurant, bar, pool, and yoga and breathwork classes. Rooms start at $120USD per night and include private terraces, hot showers, and air conditioning.
Playa Guasacate
On Playa Guasacate, I’ve stayed at The Barrel Hostel and Escondite Pacifico. Of the two, I preferred Escondite Pacifico for its peace and quiet, girls-only dorm, and delicious on-site pizzeria, but The Barrel Hostel is not a bad option either, just a bit more party-oriented and bar-centric. Both include a communal kitchen you can use and there’s drinkable water you can refill your bottle with. The Barrel Hostel does offer air conditioning in the dorms, which is a rarity in Popoyo. Escondite Pacifico is fan-only.
A rather small spot, there’s only one six-bed dorm and two private rooms available. Both room types include a private bathroom, kitchen access, and 24/7 drinkable water stored in the fridge in the kitchen.
Dorms start at $20USD per night and private rooms start at $60USD per room. All come with a private bathroom, kitchen access, and air conditioning.
For those of you looking for a step up from a dorm or hostel-style accommodation, Casitas Pacific is a great boutique eco-hotel option on Playa Guasacate. Rooms start at $84USD per night and include a private bathroom, fan and/or air conditioning, mosquito net, and complimentary daily breakfast at the on-site restaurant and cafe.
Top Things to Do in Popoyo
Surf or Take a Lesson
This one’s obvious. Popoyo is a surf town through and through. It has waves for every surf level, including the aptly named Beginner Bay where newbies can jump straight into surfing some friendly green waves. With more than 300 days of offshore wind annually, there’s always something working across Popoyo’s 15 or so surf spots. This site has more information about each surf spot.
Surf Lessons in Popoyo
Two-hour lessons start at $30USD per class for a group lesson or $40USD for private lessons and include a board and rash guard. If you’re signing up for multiple classes in a week, ask for a discount. I’ve taken lessons with Big Surf House (associated with the guys set up on the sands of Beginner Bay) and with Luli of Sardina Surf. I highly recommend Luli’s lessons ($35 for group and $45 for private)! The guys on the beach aren’t bad, but not as professional during the lesson in my experience.
Board Rentals in Popoyo
Most, if not all, beachfront hostels on Playa Popoyo and Playa Guasacate offer board and gear rentals. In 2023, the going daily rental rate was $10USD for a short board and $15USD for a long board.
Hire a Surf Charter
I saw a lot of more experienced surfers hiring surf charters while I was in Popoyo. You can book full or half-day charters and cover multiple surf breaks in a day. Some of the most popular Popoyo surf breaks to visit are Playgrounds, Chacocente, Laces Left, Popoyo Reef, Santanas, Panga Drops, Colorados, and Manzanillo. Some charters may even take you to a few secret spots as well.
Visit the Tide Pools
There are two tide pool locations along Popoyo’s beaches. The most popular is located just north of Playa Guasacate (location) and the other is located right in front of Magnific Rock (location). The ones at the end of Playa Guasacate are certainly worth checking out.
Check out the Las Salinas Hot Springs
Located in Las Salinas, the Termales de Nahualapa are a series of three natural hot spring pools, with the hottest pool providing water for the other two. This is a seriously relaxing activity in an albeit rustic location (location). Don’t be surprised if you’re sharing the pool with locals as they do their laundry in the hot water. Perhaps pack a few Toñas in a cooler and time your visit for sundown when the air is cooler and the stars are out.
Entry Fee: $3USD
Attend Yoga & Breathwork Sessions
Both Magnific Rock and 99 Surf Lodge offer yoga and breathwork classes multiple times a week. I’ve been to both and nothing beats Magnific Rock’s clifftop yoga studio, especially for one of their sunset sessions. 99 Surf Lodge also has a beautiful setup right on their beachfront platform that includes a juice or coffee at the bar after the session. Classes are typically $10USD per class with discounts if you’re a guest at either property.
Visit the Chacocente Nature Reserve
Little did I know when I was in Popoyo, Nicaragua’s largest wildlife refuge and sea turtle reserve (location) is located in front of the surf spot of Chacocente. The Refugio de Vida Silvestre Río Escalante-Chacocente is home to a variety of species of monkeys, birds, anteaters, armadillos, four species of cats, and birds, including toucans and Nicaragua’s national bird - the motmot. Also of note, between July and December each year, Olive Ridley turtles arrive to the area by the hundreds of thousands to lay their eggs on the beach. This is not to be missed!
Entry Fee: $10USD
Visit the El Astillero Fishing Village
For a taste of local culture, take a ride over to the fishing village of El Astillero (location) where you can witness local fisherman dragging in their catch from the boats. You’re also welcome to buy fish and lobster right from the fisherman. The daily catch usually includes lobster, wahoo, pargo (red snapper), sierra mackeral, and yellowtail.
ATMs in Popoyo
Short answer: there are none. Or there weren’t as recently as June 2023. Pair that with the fact that Popoyo is mostly a cash-only town with a few rare exceptions, it’s easy to run out of cash fast. Here are your options:
Nearest ATM from Popoyo
The nearest ATM is located inside of Plaza Riviera de Tola near the gates of Hacienda Iguana, about a 20-minute drive from Popoyo and usually a $20USD roundtrip fare by taxi from Popoyo.
Cashback at Ocean Market
Another option, though not guaranteed, is to do cashback at Ocean Market (Popoyo location + Guasacate location). There’s one on both Popoyo beaches. They do charge a fee on top that I believe is around 8%.
PayPal
A few spots will accept PayPal as payment, mainly at restaurants. Again, this is not guaranteed. Better to have a healthy supply of cash to last you your entire stay.
If you found this Popoyo guide useful and would like to say thank you, one of the best ways to do so is by booking your hotels, transport, tours, and trip insurance through the links you find on my site or on my Travel Resources page. This sends a bit back my way at no additional cost to you and helps to keep this blog up and running. Thank you for your support!
If you found this post helpful, one of the best ways to say thanks is by booking your hotels, transport, tours, and trip insurance through the links on my Travel Resources page or by clicking any of the trip-relevant links below. This sends a bit back my way at no additional cost to you and helps to keep this blog up and running. Thank you for your support!
Accommodations: Booking.com, HostelWorld, Trivago
Tours & Experiences: Viator, GetYourGuide, EatWith, TripAdvisor
Trains, Buses, & Transfers: Bookaway, 12Go, BusBud
Car Rentals: DiscoverCars.com
Trip Insurance: Squaremouth, WorldTrips
Learn Spanish: Rosetta Stone, Babbel, Pimsleur
What to Read Next
Nicaragua Foot Tracks
Granada Guide: Where to Eat, Sleep, & Explore in Nicaragua’s Grungy Yet Gripping Colonial City
Rough around the edges but full of character and charm, Granada’s a soft landing on any Nicaragua adventure. Here’s where to stay, eat, and explore when in Granada's grasp.
This entry may contain affiliate links. This means if you click a link in this post and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. Affiliate links are how I’m able to keep this blog going, so thank you for your support!
Granada is a place that exudes an air of well-worn sneakers or ripped jeans, a little rough around the edges and caked with the dust and debris of life through the ages of volcanic eruptions, pirate attacks, revolutions, and moto exhaust. It’s grungy, but endearing, and you can’t help but feel part of its timeworn and “as is” fabric and folds when you walk its cobbled streets. When I arrived, I could tell it’s a place you slowly slip into, not rush the exit. So slowly slip I did. I extended my 3 booked nights to 5, and allowed the days and nights to shape themselves, following what felt like a breadcrumb trail laid just for me. I boated and biked, I downward dogged and dug into delicious cuisine dished up on banana leaves, I had my mind read and tarot cards pulled, I peered into volcanic craters bubbling with lava and swapped life stories with the souls I met along the way. By week’s end, Granada, for me, felt and will always feel like a soft landing I can always return to, underwhelming and unkempt in the most sweet and soul-nourishing way. Here’s where my Granada days took me.
Restaurants & Cafes
The Garden Cafe
A beautiful cafe centered around a lush garden with a menu of delicious and healthy cuisine for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Pita Pita
Exceptional Israeli cuisine that lures even the locals away from their classic gallo pinto plate.
Restaurante El Zaguán
On the more upscale end, but by no means expensive, this restaurant serves some of the best grilled meats and Nicaraguan cuisine I tried in the country.
Panaderia Pan de Vida
Come for the pizza or the cinnamon rolls, either way you won’t be disappointed. The ambiance, with picnic table seating in an open air courtyard, is also well worth the trip.
Cafe de las Sonrisas
This social impact cafe employs and is managed entirely by deaf people, so brush off your biggest grin and give signing a go when you put in your order.
Vigorón Doña Nereyda
Located in the central plaza of Granada, grab a seat at one of the plastic tables and dig into this classic Granada street eat alongside an ice-cold glass of tamarind juice.
La Chicharroneria Granada
A cheaper version of the same dishes you’ll find at Restaurante El Zaguan in a much more casual atmosphere.
Gaia Forest Cafe & Market
A rare spot in town where it’s okay to bring your laptop and hang out for hours working. And their coffee is exceptional.
Tostometro
Located just outside the municipal market and home to the famous banana burger, this spot is a must-visit.
Things to Do
Visit Volcan Masaya
This is a must-do. Time your visit for sunset and watch the firey pit suddenly take on a mesmerizing reddish glow. All Masaya tours will drop you right at the crater, so there’s no hiking involved, though you can wander the trails around the crater for some different viewpoints of the volcano and surrounding landscapes.
Explore the Isletas de Granada By Boat
Head out for a relaxing few hours on Lake Managua, home to the 365 little islands called Isletas de Granada. Meander past forts and islands both inhabited and uninhabited, some of which have monkeys swinging from the trees or the luxurious private residences of Nicaragua’s rich and famous. You can arrange a tour through your accommodation or check out these tours on Viator.
Climb the Merced Clock Tower at Sunset
For $1, you can climb up to the clock tower of the Iglesia de la Merced. It’s open all day, but I’d recommend timing your visit for sunset. Keep in mind, however, that the last available entry is at 5:30pm so you’ll want to get there a bit before then. They’ll let you stay up there taking in the views until just after sunset.
Spend a Day at Laguna de Apoyo
This crater lake is the perfect spot to spend a sunshine-soaked day lounging or exploring by kayak. You can visit by way of a day trip from Granada or spend the night at one of the hostels or hotels right on the lake (Paradiso Hostel and Casa Marimba are two of the more popular lodging choices).
Shop at the Masaya Crafts Market
The city of Masaya is considered a Cultural Heritage of the Nation for its rich customs and culture. At the Masaya Craft Market you can shop for handcrafted souvenirs or catch a folkloric dance performance. In town, you can also admire the views of the lake from the boardwalk, grab a bite to eat, or visit the old fortress. It’s the perfect day trip from Granada, and en route to other sites like Laguna de Apoyo and the Masaya Volcano.
Hike Volcan Mombacho
Though dormant, the Mombacho Volcano beckons with three cloud forested trails for you to explore around its crater. A visit can be done by way of a tour from Granada or on your own via taxi or public transport. If you go on your own, keep in mind that two of the trails (El Puma and El Tigrillo) do require that you pay for a guide. You’ll want to give yourself a full day to explore as each trail takes around one to four hours to complete.
Go on a Free Walking Tour
This one is a no-brainer. A free walking tour through Granada gives you a lay of the land and introduces you to the city'’s riveting history and architectural marvels. Many of the hostels in town regularly host a weekly free walking tour for their guests, specifically I know Selina, Hostal Azul, and Hostal de Boca en Boca do. If you’re not staying at any of those, just pop in and ask if you can join their tour or go the classic route and sign up for one via GuruWalk.
Drink and Dine on Calle la Calzada
This pedestrian-only street is lined with restaurants and tables on the sidewalk. It’s atmospheric and the perfect way to end a day of exploring with a cocktail, beer, or full on dinner. Nectar and Monna Lisa are good options to get you going.
Attend a Show at the Magician Lounge
This is perhaps the best $5 you could spend in Granada and the perfect evening plan. The Magician Lounge offers twice-nightly shows (6pm & 9pm) every night of the week with a very talented mentalist from Denmark. He’ll read your mind and blow you away with his unexplainable mentalism tricks. Cocktails and light bites are available on-site should you get thirsty or hungry and they often offer promotional rates that include drinks, snacks, and even a tarot reading with the mentalist’s third-generation tarot reading partner.
Rent a Bike
Do yourself a favor and explore Granada on two wheels. It’s my personal favorite way to get to know a city and Granada has some beautiful streets and lakefront lanes to cycle down. If you’re staying at Hostal Azul, they actually include a free two-hour bike rental with your stay. If not, you can rent bikes at Maximus Bicycle Rentals or book this well-reviewed bike tour with Andemos Tours & Bikes.
Keep Fit at Pure Gym
Many of the hostels in town (Hostal Azul and Hostal Boca en Boca to name a couple) offer guests a free day pass to Pure Gym. Use it for their morning yoga or Zumba classes and then hit the fully equipped gym afterward. If you’re not staying at a spot offering the free pass, day passes cost $3USD or $6USD with an exercise class included. It’s a genius concept and one I’m surprised I haven’t seen more often in my travels.
Hostels & Hotels
This $10usd/night hostel includes more amenities than $10 should ever buy: free breakfast, daily activities, bikes you can borrow, a day pass to the local gym, and a communal kitchen.
This is the hostel I found myself returning to again and again. It’s clean, comfortable with fans by every bed, and hosts a weekly calendar of activities, all for $10/night. This hostel, too, offers a communal kitchen and day pass to the local gym.
This social enterprise hotel has a sister property in my other favorite city. The profits from your stay at this beautiful boutique hotel go towards providing local children with the funds to finish school.
Getting to Granada
By Public Transportation
From Managua: Buses to Granada leave from the UCA bus station (see pin). The buses headed to Granada are typically micro-buses and not the flashy chicken buses. They seat up to 16 people and they will likely try and pack in far more than that. I rode on the dashboard during my first journey from Managua to Granada by micro-bus, just to give you an idea of what you might expect. Depending on weather and space in the bus, they may store your bags on the roof or up front by the driver and they are likely to charge you a bit extra for your bag. The total price shouldn’t be more than 100 Cordobas per person to include your bag. The journey takes about 1.5 hours.
From Rivas (the unavoidable hub): From Rivas, the unavoidable hub if you’re traveling from San Juan del Sur, Popoyo, or the ferry port from Ometepe, you’ll look for the chicken bus headed for Granada. Just ask someone if you can’t find it and they’ll point you to it. It should cost no more than 50 Cordobas, and maybe a bit more for bag if they have to store it. Buses depart almost hourly starting at 6am, just be aware that the last bus to Granada departs around 5:55pm, so if you arrive into Rivas after that, you’ll have to take a taxi the rest of the way. Also, Sundays operate on an extremely limited schedule. It’s best to ask your hotel or hostel for the latest schedule.
By Taxi or Shuttle
Both taxis, private transport, and shared shuttles are available between most destinations in Nicaragua, as well to/from destinations around Nicaragua, like Costa Rica, El Salvador, and Guatemala. Whenever available, I usually book a shared shuttle or private transport through Bookaway or 12Go, two reliable sites that aggregate vetted local transportation operators and that offer the added benefit of 24-hour live support should anything come up during your trip.
Explore Bookaway’s Nicaragua routes
Explore 12Go’s Nicaragua routes
Taxis will typically run you between $50 and $70 between destinations within Nicaragua.
Useful Links
Along Dusty Roads
I found this travel blogging couple’s Granada content really useful while in the city. They break down all of the information you could possibly need for day trips from the city, getting to and from Granada by public transport, and what they wish they knew before visiting Granada.
If you found this post helpful, one of the best ways to say thanks is by booking your hotels, transport, tours, and trip insurance through the links on my Travel Resources page or by clicking any of the trip-relevant links below. This sends a bit back my way at no additional cost to you and helps to keep this blog up and running. Thank you for your support!
Accommodations: Booking.com, HostelWorld, Trivago
Tours & Experiences: GuruWalk, Viator, GetYourGuide, EatWith, TripAdvisor
Trains, Buses, & Transfers: Bookaway, 12Go, BusBud
Car Rentals: DiscoverCars.com
Trip Insurance: Squaremouth, WorldTrips
Learn Spanish: Rosetta Stone, Babbel, Pimsleur
What to Read Next
Managua Travel Guide: Tips for Traveling Nicaragua's Underrated Capital City
Nicaragua’s capital city of Managua is the landing pad for anyone flying into Nicaragua. Unlike most, I decided to spend a few nights peeking under its under-touristed folds. Here's where I ate, slept, and explored in this surprisingly sleepy big city.
This entry may contain affiliate links. This means if you click a link in this post and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. Affiliate links are what help me to keep this blog going, so thank you for your support!
Managua is Nicaragua’s capital city and the landing pad for anyone flying into Nicaragua. Unlike most, I decided to spend a couple of nights in this under-touristed city on a lake, and I’m glad I did. Managua, for me, was a salve for the nerves I felt about visiting a country only the most adventurous backpackers do. This city, with its eerily empty parks, earthquake-destroyed cathedrals, and windy and militarized viewpoints, taught me to be careful with secondhand assumptions about places and people. Better, always, to draw my own conclusions. In Managua, I met a sense of safety and warmth that took me a second to receive, as it went so against what I thought I knew about this country. Managua pushed me back into a place of open-mindedness, offering up a blank slate, all in preparation for the adventure to come within its borders. Here’s where I ate, slept, and explored while in Nicaragua’s capital city.
Restaurants & Cafes
Buenas Vibras Coffee
This is where I took my first sip of Nicaraguan coffee and fell in love. If only I’d realized sooner the beautiful patio they had out back to savor it in.
Pane e Vino
A splurge by Nicaraguan standards, Pane e Vino’s menu of Italian classics is worth every Cordoba, and with an atmosphere to match.
Quesillos El Pipe
For a snack-sized bite out of Nicaraguan street food in a restaurant setting, Quesillos El Pipe is the spot. At its most basic, a quesillo is a warm tortilla stuffed with melted soft cheese and topped with pickled onions and sour cream.
Quality Nicaraguan coffee and mouthwatering desserts, like banana pie, are what you’ll find at this open and airy Managua cafe. It’s also perfect for working away at your computer between bites and sips.
Cocina de Doña Haydée
This foodie gem of Managua is home to authentic Nicaraguan food and a nice sampling of regional cuisines from around the country all in one place. It’s always buzzing with mainly locals no matter the time of day.
Things to Do
Paseo Xolotlán
A three-kilometer promenade that hugs the windy shores of Lake Xolotlán (Lake Managau), the Pasea Xolotlán is a great spot to soak in the atmosphere of local life in Managua with its restaurants, kiosks, and models of pre- 1972 earthquake Managua.
Revolution Square
Revolution Square is home to several attractions worth visiting, including the miraculously still erect Santiago Cathedral, the tomb of Sandinista hero Carlos Fonseca, a marble monument to the poet Rubén Darío, and the Palacio Nacional de la Cultura where national treasures are housed.
Loma de Tiscapa
Head here for the best views of Managua on historic ground. The towering silhouette that marks the hilltop is that of national hero General Augusto Calderón Sandino. It stands symbolically atop where the cruel dictator Anastasio Somoza Garcia’s palace and torture rooms once stood.
Hostels
La Bicicleta Hostal
Located within a leafy and pedestrian-friendly corner of Managua, La Bicicleta Hostal is a quiet oasis in the big city. Breakfast is included, the dorms and private rooms have fans to keep you cool in the Nicaraguan heat, there’s a communal kitchen, and the indoor-outdoor grounds are perfect for relaxing with a book, laying out your yoga mat, or chatting with new friends over craft beers from the hostel’s beer cooler.
Getting To, From, & Around Managua
Getting to/from Managua
By Flight
Managua is home to the Augusto C. Sandino International Airport (MGA). It services flights from the following carriers:
Aeromexico (from Mexico City)
American Airlines (from Miami)
Avianca (from Miami and San Salvador)
Conviasa (from Havana)
Copa Airlines (from Guatemala City, Panama City, and San Jose, CR)
La Costeña (from Bluefields, Bonanza, Corn Island, Puerto Cabezas, and Waspam)
Sansa Airlines (from San Jose, CR)
Spirit Airlines (from Fort Lauderdale)
United Airlines (from Houston)
You can search for flights and track prices using your favorite flight comparison tool. If you don’t have one yet, my favorite flight aggregator tool is WayAway and my favorite tool for finding out about the best flight deals is FareDrop, while Hopper’s great for keeping track of when to book at the best price.
By Public Transportation
Nicaragua has a vast network of “chicken buses” that can get you pretty much anywhere you need to go with some patience and an adventurous spirit. From Managua, there are buses headed south to places like Granada and San Juan del Sur or north to Leon. The bus station depends on which direction you’re going, so just ask your host or hotel where to go for the bus heading in the direction you need.
By Taxi or Shuttle
Both taxis, private transport, and shared shuttles are available between most destinations in Nicaragua, as well to/from destinations around Nicaragua, like Costa Rica, El Salvador, and Guatemala. Whenever available, I usually book a shared shuttle or private transport through Bookaway or 12Go, two reliable sites that aggregate vetted local transportation operators and that offer the added benefit of 24-hour live support should anything come up during your trip.
Explore Bookaway’s Nicaragua routes
Explore 12Go’s Nicaragua routes
Taxis will typically run you between $50 and $70 between destinations within Nicaragua.
Getting Around Managua
While Uber doesn’t work in Nicaragua, something called Ray App does, but only in Managua. It’s essentially the same thing as Uber and a safe and reliable option to get around that means no haggling, plus the added protection of in-app support and safety features.
If you found this post helpful, one of the best ways to say thanks is by booking your hotels, transport, tours, and trip insurance through the links on my Travel Resources page or by clicking any of the trip-relevant links below. This sends a bit back my way at no additional cost to you and helps to keep this blog up and running. Thank you for your support!
Accommodations: Booking.com, HostelWorld, Trivago
Tours & Experiences: GuruWalk, Viator, GetYourGuide, EatWith, TripAdvisor
Trains, Buses, & Transfers: Bookaway, 12Go, BusBud
Car Rentals: DiscoverCars.com
Trip Insurance: Squaremouth, WorldTrips
Learn Spanish: Rosetta Stone, Babbel, Pimsleur
What to Read Next
El Transito is a no-frills surf stopover where the main attraction is the waves. Here’s a guide to all the best bites, stays, and things to do in the unassuming Nicaraguan surf town of El Transito.