San Jose to La Fortuna, Costa Rica

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If you landed on this page seeking information about how to get from San Jose to La Fortuna (or vice versa), scroll to the bottom of this post for step-by-step instructions and recommendations.

January 10-14, 2023

Hello from La Fortuna, Costa Rica. It’s my last of three nights in this steamy, hot springs-laced town and things haven’t entirely gone as planned here, or since settling into San Jose on Tuesday. Let me explain.

Arriving into San Jose went smoothly. All flights took off as scheduled, getting the Uber from the airport to my hostel in the trendy Barrio Escalante of San Jose was practically seamless, and a bottom, curtained bunk (true luxury by backpacker standards) was waiting for me at Chillout Escalante Hostel. All was good, save for the pounding headache my travel day seemed to have left me with.

I managed to get out for an early dinner, more like forced myself out for an early dinner, at a vegan spot called Huacamole. I wasn’t really hungry but knew I needed more in my stomach than the bagel and muffin I’d consumed en route from DC. The spot was cute with neon lights and murals on the walls. I was there long before dinner hour at 5pm, so I pretty much had the dining room to myself. The menu consisted of beyond meat burgers, vegan pizzas, meatless tacos, and sweet potato fries. I went for the pizza, my usual arrival hack for getting two meals for one. I’d eat half there and get the other half to go and have it for lunch or dinner the next day.

While I do frustratingly tend to get migraine-grade headaches after long travel days, no matter how much water I consume, they usually wear off after a good night’s sleep. This one did, then didn’t. The next morning, I felt mostly refreshed and ready to enjoy my one and only full day in San Jose. I chatted with a couple of other solo female travelers over coffee (free coffee, and something I’m finding most hostels offer here in Costa Rica) in the hostel’s open-air back terrace and got the lay of the land from one of them who was at the end of her trip.

Mostly trying to scope out possible places I should visit while here, I asked her what her highlight experience has been in Costa Rica. She said it was her time in a beach town called Uvita, on the southern Pacific coast. I got the sense, and have since confirmed, it was mostly because of that magical mix of right setting and right people that can sometimes happen. Others have since told me Uvita’s nice, but not extraordinary. I may still visit Uvita to see if I get just as lucky as she did.

Knowing I needed to get a good three hours of work done, the three of us parted ways and I headed for a well-reviewed coffee shop nearby named Franco. The reviews were right. Everything from the latte and fresh-baked almond croissant I ordered to the design of the space, complete with a lush back garden, was on point. If San Jose was home, I’d be back again and again.

While at the cafe, I reconnected with a friend via my DMs who also happened to be in San Jose. She was in town visiting a friend of hers who worked at the American Embassy. We made plans to meet up for the afternoon free walking tour. Earlier that day, I’d also discovered another friend whom I’d met in Barcelona is also traveling Costa Rica right now. I think I’m beginning to finally benefit from the fruits of my friend-making over many years of travel. I have a feeling anywhere I go now, there’s bound to be someone I know wandering the same parts.

It was during the walking tour that I realized perhaps my headache of the day before wasn’t just the usual travel day bodily response. My appetite still hadn’t really returned and crawling into bed was about the only thing I was up for when the tour ended. Not the most exciting start to my Costa Rica adventure, but not the worst either. I appreciated the sweet surprises I did receive.

The next day I woke up and Ubered to the bus station, now really not feeling well. Congestion had kicked in overnight and the headache had returned. But I had a four-hour bus to catch to La Fortuna and a hostel booking there to fulfill. I could feel my health going downhill fast and I was strongly resisting, wanting so much to pretend it wasn’t. I had things to do, places to go, people to meet, and only three weeks in this beautiful country. I don’t have time to be sick. And yet, that’s what I seem to be.

So here we are, the current state of things. I’m battling some sort of head cold. It is what it is. My three nights, two full days in gorgeous and cloud forested La Fortuna have been a push-pull between pretending I’m not sick and just surrendering to it.

I spent my first night in La Fortuna doing everything I could to set myself up for success. I hydrated, got some food in my belly, and hit the bunk early. When I had checked into SantaFe Hostel, Edgar the owner had walked me through all of the best things to do while here - dangling things before me like whitewater rafting, crater lake hikes, 246-foot waterfalls, sloth trails, hidden springs, thermal pools, and hanging bridges through wildlife-rich jungle. Even at my healthiest, I couldn’t possibly do it all, but that crater lake hike had my name written all over it. That I had to do. Maybe by morning, I’d be well enough to give it a go. Wishful thinking.

Morning came and it was obvious a strenuous hike up slippery clay trails was not and could not be on the agenda for the day. But spending the day in bed also wasn’t an option I was willing to consider. I had heard about the hanging bridges and a free hot spring somewhere nearby. After checking in with Edgar on details like transport, price, and tips, I had my plan sorted for the day. Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park would be my first stop, followed by a soak in the free hot springs. Absolutely perfect.

And it really was. The weather cooperated as I wandered the trails and hanging bridges through the park. I spotted one howler monkey and several colorful birds amidst the rich green scenes around me, and got a nice enough view of the Arenal Volcano, albeit the top half was hidden behind some dense and unrelenting clouds. It was easy enough to get an Uber from Mistico to the hot springs after and though the hot springs were quite full when I arrived by early afternoon, there was a nice little spot waiting for me in the river.

I felt great. This was an incredible start to my La Fortuna stay, despite the frustrating health handicap. Perhaps I’d be well enough to attempt the crater lake hike the next day. After all, what’s better medicine than walks in nature and soaks in mineral springs? Again, I had hope.

And again, I was wrong. The next morning came and went and that crater lake was just as far from my reach as it had been. The night before, I’d even recruited a Dutch couple to join me for the adventure, but when the three of us awoke at 5am to heavy rain, it was Mother Nature that pulled out the stop sign, and probably prevented me from doing something I never should have been doing anyway.

Again, I had to scramble for a plan B because a day in bed was not a good use of my limited time here. Fortunately, I’m in the land of hot springs and hot springs are rain or shine, healthy or not, sorta places. So, I made my reservation at EcoTermales, one of the mid-range (meaning $45 entry fee, instead of the $70 asked for at some of the higher-end spots) hot spring options in town, grateful to snag a spot so last minute.

I suited up, called an Uber, and slipped into the springs as fast as I could. I wanted to make the most of my 10am - 4pm access. It was a divine way to spend a rainy sick day in La Fortuna. There were even loungers in the pools, so you could lay back, take a snooze, and soak in all the mineral springs benefits under the gorgeous jungle canopy that doubled as an umbrella when the on-and-off rain showers rolled in.

Here I leave you for now. It’s my last night in La Fortuna. I board a shared shuttle tomorrow for another four-hour journey to Samara, a Pacific beach town I’ve heard nothing but good things about. I’m hoping my health improves fast, but if not, lazy days on the beach don’t sound so bad either. I do wish I had more lively adventure tales and gleaming cultural insights to share with you, but that’s just not how this trip is panning out for now. And that’s okay…or so I’m learning to accept.

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How to Get to La Fortuna from San Jose:

Head to Terminal 7-10 (view on map). There’s a bus that leaves daily at 8am. The price at time of writing is $4,135 CRC ($7-8 USD). You can also purchase tickets in advance at mibus.cr (recommended as you get to board first, but not necessary). The journey can take anywhere from 4 to 6 hours. Another option if you’d like to get there faster and in more comfort is to book a shuttle through Bookaway. Prices start at $39USD for a shared shuttle (4 hours) and $165USD (expensive but fast!) for a private transfer (2.5 hours). Or consider renting a car. Discover Cars is a great car rental comparison site to begin your search. They find and compare rates across all of the major rental companies, including Hertz, Avis, Economy, etc.

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