The Perfect Popoyo Itinerary: Insider Insight into Nicaragua’s Best Beach Town
Popoyo is full of subtle and not-so-subtle charms and a place that pulls you into its alternate universe quite quickly. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting this Nicaraguan surf town.
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I visited Popoyo not once, but twice, in 2023. From the very onset, Popoyo had me hooked with its subtle and not-so-subtle charm, quickly becoming one of my favorite places I’ve ever visited. My first few hours in this Nicaraguan surf town included a fiery sunset under a string light-lit table at Viento Este Pizza (part of the laidback Escondite Pacifico) and an unexpected primer on the who, how, and what of Popoyo from a trio of Argentinian women who had been visiting for decades.
With their primer, I found my way on this stretch of Pacific sand, joining the surfers daily in Beginner Bay, wandering down the dusty streets to the only mini market on the Guasacate side of Popoyo for sunset beers, slices of fresh-baked banana bread, and cash with my fingers crossed that the cashier had it in her till (Popoyo’s an ATM-less and cash-only town FYI).
What I love about Popoyo is its omnipresent spirit of community, something you’ll notice days in, if not straight away. It’s a beach town of mainly surf-obsessed foreigners and yogis who willingly got stuck in its seriously tempting air of an alternate universe. If it doesn’t have you questioning why you’d ever leave or dreaming about when you can get here next, you might have missed something. Popoyo’s a special spot.
When you go, here’s where and how to spend your time in Popoyo, plus some of the practical details including how to arrive, get around, and restock on cash when you inevitably run out in this cash-only town.
Best Time to Visit Popoyo
I’ve visited Popoyo in both the wet and the dry season and found both to have their individual pros and cons. No matter what, expect it to be hot. The dry season extends from November through April and tends to be busier and full of life, while the wet season typically runs from May through October and can feel a bit sleepier, but this also means less crowded surf lineups and discounted rates at Popoyo’s hotels and hostels.
Surf Considerations
If you’re in Popoyo to surf, as most are, the best time to visit is during the dry season when the waves are at their most consistent. However, the biggest swells of the year tend to arrive during the first few months of the wet season. In general, Popoyo is a year-round surf destination, even for beginner surfers like me. Popoyo’s Beginner Bay, located next to Mag Rock, is where I stood up on my first green wave and it’s now my go-to spot to surf when nowhere else is working.
Turtle Nesting Season
If you’re interested in witnessing the turtles nesting, peak nesting season in Popoyo is typically from July to December. The best nesting grounds in the area are at Refugio de Vida Silvestre Río Escalante-Chacocente. Later in this post, I share more about the reserve and how to get there from Popoyo.
How to Get to Popoyo
Popoyo is not the easiest Nicaraguan destination to get to, but it’s not impossible and it’s certainly worth whatever hassle may be required. Both times I’ve visited, I arrived by a combination of taxi and chicken bus, with Rivas being the connection point between Popoyo and pretty much every other destination on Nicaragua’s Pacific-side tourist trail, be it Ometepe, Granada, or San Juan del Sur.
Here’s how I did it:
Step 1: Chicken Bus to Rivas
Whether you’re coming from Granada, San Juan del Sur, or Ometepe, there is likely a chicken bus headed to Rivas for you to hop on. This not-so-pretty hub is the unavoidable link between you and Popoyo if you’re looking to travel on the cheap. The chicken bus to Rivas should cost you no more than 50 Cordobas from Granada and 30 Cordobas from San Juan del Sur for a seat and perhaps as much for your bag too (yes, they will charge you for your bigger pack if it needs to be stored). Ask at your hotel or hostel for the latest schedule. There are usually multiple and regular departures each day. Beware of Sundays when some routes aren’t available at all.
Step 2: Private or Shared Taxi to Popoyo or Guasacate
It’s important to know whether your hotel is in Playa Popoyo or Playa Guasacate. If you get it wrong and say Popoyo when you really mean Guasacate, you may be in for an angry taxi driver who could charge you a few more cordobas for the mistake. The two beaches aren’t exactly the most direct to get between. The price for a taxi from Rivas to Popoyo should cost you no more than $30USD. If you can, round up a few other travelers in Rivas headed to Popoyo to cut your cost. The driver will likely still charge per head, but at a discounted rate. The journey by taxi between Rivas and Popoyo (see Rivas taxi contacts below) is roughly an hour to an hour and a half. In Rivas, beware of anyone trying to vector you into a taxi. It’s usually not going to be the best rate.
Rivas Taxi Contacts
Here are a few Rivas-based taxi contacts to save to your phone:
Yasmil Transportation +505 8673 4936
Travel Lopez +505 8635 5834
Pedro Vilchez Pereira +505 87117521 (personally used him and found him to be great!)
Alternative Option (Not Recommended)
Step 1: Chicken Bus to Rivas
Same instructions as above.
Step 2: Chicken Bus to Las Salinas/Tola (if staying on Playa Popoyo) or to El Astillero (if staying on Playa Guasacate)
The chicken bus to Las Salinas via Rivas runs more frequently, but there is no guarantee it will stop and pick you up in Rivas if the bus is already full. It does pass through Rivas frequently throughout the day. The schedule I have is 5:30am, 9:10am, 11am, 12:50pm, 2:30pm, 4:00pm, and 4:50pm, but you may want to verify locally. I do not know the going rate for this chicken bus, as I haven’t taken it myself.
If you’re heading to Playa Guasacate, you’ll want to be on the bus to El Astillero if you can. This bus runs less frequently, with just two departures a day. The schedule I have is 5:30am and 4:50pm. Please verify for yourself. This bus will drop you at the road into Guasacate, from there you can call a local taxi (see the How to Get Around section above for some local taxi contacts) or walk the 7km there, and mind you it will be a hot and dusty walk at that! Another option if you miss the El Astillero bus is to take the Las Salinas bus and then get a local taxi from there to Playa Guasacate.
Private Taxi or Shared Shuttle
Of course, you could also always get to Popoyo by private taxi or shared shuttle from wherever your starting point is and avoid all of this chicken bus hassle. Whenever available, I usually book a shared shuttle or private transport through Bookaway or 12Go, two reliable sites that aggregate vetted local transportation operators and that offer the added benefit of 24-hour live support should anything come up during your trip.
Explore Bookaway’s routes to/from Popoyo and beyond
Explore 12Go’s routes to/from Popoyo and beyond
For a private transfer or taxi, I recommend reaching out to any one of the Rivas-based taxi drivers listed above in the “Rivas Taxi Contacts” section, as many of them will do trips to/from Popoyo via Granada, Ometepe, or San Juan del Sur. Unfortunately, I do not know the pricing for a private transfer, but you can typically bank on it being about $50-70USD per trip.
How to Get Around in Popoyo
Popoyo has two sections of beach: Playa Popoyo and Playa Guasacate. Each one, due to the distance of beach (including a river crossing) between the two and the roundabout way to get from one to other by car, does tend to cause you to either eat, shop, and party on the same stretch of beach you sleep or be forced to pay for a taxi to get you between the two. If round-the-clock accessibility to both beaches is important to you, you could also rent a moto. This also opens up the possibility for you to easily visit the nearest ATM (a 20-minute drive away) and explore some of the nearby attractions like the nature reserve and hot springs on your own schedule (more on that in the Things to Do section).
Moto Rentals
Nicawaves (Playa Popoyo)
Nicawaves in Playa Popoyo rents motorcycles for $30 a day or $150 for the week. They come with surf racks to carry your board to the beach and two helmets. You can contact them directly at +877 521 0904 on WhatsApp.
Popoyo Moto Rentals (Playa Guasacate)
If you’re instead staying on Playa Guasacate, Popoyo Moto Rentals rents dirt bikes and semi-automatic scooters with optional surf racks, helmets, and roadside assistance included. I do not know their current pricing, but you can reach out to them directly at +505 7784 0787 on WhatsApp.
Local Taxi Contacts
While I was in Popoyo, Dan (+505 77432132) and Francisco (+505 81042098) were recommended to me as local, reliable taxi contacts. You can also ask your hotel or hostel to arrange a local taxi for you should you need it. And you might, as the nearest ATM is in Las Salinas, a 20-minute drive away. The rate for a taxi from one beach to the other was $10USD in 2023.
Where to Eat + Drink in Popoyo
As previously mentioned in this Popoyo travel guide, Popoyo is really two different beaches: Playa Popoyo and Playa Guasacate. For this reason, I’ve broken this section up by beach, naming a few spots in each that I’ve visited and loved.
Playa Popoyo
Magnific Rock Cafe at Magnific Rock
Dine on the rock with the best views in Popoyo before you. Their menu of seafood and classic American fare is always good with the freshest of ingredients hand-delivered from local farms or fished straight from the ocean you can see and hear from the dining room.
Bar & Restaurant at Popoyo Republic
The beach bar and restaurant at Popoyo Republic has a menu that ranges from pulled pork sandwiches to vegan spring rolls, all served in a usually lively atmosphere once the sun sets. They’re also known to regularly host live music events and parties in the same space.
Taberna 99 & Mesquite at 99 Surf Lodge
Taberna 99 and Mesquite are 99 Surf Lodge’s dining contributions to Popoyo. While Taberna 99’s claim to fame is its wood-fired pizza, Mesquite offers seats on the sand and sustainable cuisine made with seasonal ingredients and the promise of no meat from any factory farms.
Playa Guasacate
Viento Este Pizza at Escondite Pacifico
This is the spot on Playa Guasacate for wood-fired pizzas and calzones with a front-row seat to the magical Popoyo sunset, all with your toes in the sand. If they’re still serving it, don’t miss their maracuya cheesecake for dessert. This spot is only open on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday nights from 6pm to 10pm.
This Italian-owned beachfront cafe serves some of the best coffee in town, as well as smoothies, pasta, and paninis. Their hours are a bit funky, usually open Wednesday through Sunday only from 8am to 2pm. There is a good wifi connection here for any digital nomads reading this.
Curry & Noodle Nights at Red Pepper Popoyo
Red Pepper Popoyo as a dinner venue is only open twice a week to non-guests for their beloved Monday curry and Wednesday Indonesian noodle nights. Reservations are highly recommended as they only make enough for about 25 people each time. You can WhatsApp them at +505 8860 2750 to reserve your plate.
Best Hostels & Hotels in Popoyo
I’ve slept on both beaches in Popoyo and at a few different hotels and hostels on each beach. Here are my reviews of where I’ve stayed for your reference as you pick where to stay in Popoyo. Also, check out my more expanded post on Popoyo’s best hostels and hotels.
Playa Popoyo
On the Playa Popoyo side of town, I’ve stayed at both SUYO Cabañas and Magnific Rock. Of the two, SUYO Cabañas was by far the better option with its tranquil atmosphere, kitchen access, and privacy. The dorms at Magnific Rock, where I slept, are long overdue for an update and not the most comfortable, nor is there access to a kitchen, but the clifftop location overlooking Beginner Bay and access to their yoga and breathwork classes in the jaw-droppingly beautiful on-site yoga studio may just make up for it. There’s also a pool and a pretty tasty restaurant on-site.
SUYO Cabañas is a beachfront property composed of six private oceanfront cabañas, each with its own sink, porch, hammock, ceiling fan, and mosquito-netted king-size bed. You’ll also have access to a kitchen, drinking water, and a yoga deck and mat. The cabañas start at $70USD per night.
If you have the budget for it, splurge on a private room at Magnific Rock. That is where they shine thanks to their epic clifftop location and the views to prove it from each and every one of their ocean-facing private rooms. Dorms start at $15USD per night and privates start at $79USD per night. Keep in mind there is no kitchen access here, only a bar and restaurant.
Though I haven’t slept here myself, 99 Surf Lodge is an excellent option for a more high-end stay with not only the beach on your doorstep, but a restaurant, bar, pool, and yoga and breathwork classes. Rooms start at $120USD per night and include private terraces, hot showers, and air conditioning.
Playa Guasacate
On Playa Guasacate, I’ve stayed at The Barrel Hostel and Escondite Pacifico. Of the two, I preferred Escondite Pacifico for its peace and quiet, girls-only dorm, and delicious on-site pizzeria, but The Barrel Hostel is not a bad option either, just a bit more party-oriented and bar-centric. Both include a communal kitchen you can use and there’s drinkable water you can refill your bottle with. The Barrel Hostel does offer air conditioning in the dorms, which is a rarity in Popoyo. Escondite Pacifico is fan-only.
A rather small spot, there’s only one six-bed dorm and two private rooms available. Both room types include a private bathroom, kitchen access, and 24/7 drinkable water stored in the fridge in the kitchen.
Dorms start at $20USD per night and private rooms start at $60USD per room. All come with a private bathroom, kitchen access, and air conditioning.
For those of you looking for a step up from a dorm or hostel-style accommodation, Casitas Pacific is a great boutique eco-hotel option on Playa Guasacate. Rooms start at $84USD per night and include a private bathroom, fan and/or air conditioning, mosquito net, and complimentary daily breakfast at the on-site restaurant and cafe.
Top Things to Do in Popoyo
Surf or Take a Lesson
This one’s obvious. Popoyo is a surf town through and through. It has waves for every surf level, including the aptly named Beginner Bay where newbies can jump straight into surfing some friendly green waves. With more than 300 days of offshore wind annually, there’s always something working across Popoyo’s 15 or so surf spots. This site has more information about each surf spot.
Surf Lessons in Popoyo
Two-hour lessons start at $30USD per class for a group lesson or $40USD for private lessons and include a board and rash guard. If you’re signing up for multiple classes in a week, ask for a discount. I’ve taken lessons with Big Surf House (associated with the guys set up on the sands of Beginner Bay) and with Luli of Sardina Surf. I highly recommend Luli’s lessons ($35 for group and $45 for private)! The guys on the beach aren’t bad, but not as professional during the lesson in my experience.
Board Rentals in Popoyo
Most, if not all, beachfront hostels on Playa Popoyo and Playa Guasacate offer board and gear rentals. In 2023, the going daily rental rate was $10USD for a short board and $15USD for a long board.
Hire a Surf Charter
I saw a lot of more experienced surfers hiring surf charters while I was in Popoyo. You can book full or half-day charters and cover multiple surf breaks in a day. Some of the most popular Popoyo surf breaks to visit are Playgrounds, Chacocente, Laces Left, Popoyo Reef, Santanas, Panga Drops, Colorados, and Manzanillo. Some charters may even take you to a few secret spots as well.
Visit the Tide Pools
There are two tide pool locations along Popoyo’s beaches. The most popular is located just north of Playa Guasacate (location) and the other is located right in front of Magnific Rock (location). The ones at the end of Playa Guasacate are certainly worth checking out.
Check out the Las Salinas Hot Springs
Located in Las Salinas, the Termales de Nahualapa are a series of three natural hot spring pools, with the hottest pool providing water for the other two. This is a seriously relaxing activity in an albeit rustic location (location). Don’t be surprised if you’re sharing the pool with locals as they do their laundry in the hot water. Perhaps pack a few Toñas in a cooler and time your visit for sundown when the air is cooler and the stars are out.
Entry Fee: $3USD
Attend Yoga & Breathwork Sessions
Both Magnific Rock and 99 Surf Lodge offer yoga and breathwork classes multiple times a week. I’ve been to both and nothing beats Magnific Rock’s clifftop yoga studio, especially for one of their sunset sessions. 99 Surf Lodge also has a beautiful setup right on their beachfront platform that includes a juice or coffee at the bar after the session. Classes are typically $10USD per class with discounts if you’re a guest at either property.
Visit the Chacocente Nature Reserve
Little did I know when I was in Popoyo, Nicaragua’s largest wildlife refuge and sea turtle reserve (location) is located in front of the surf spot of Chacocente. The Refugio de Vida Silvestre Río Escalante-Chacocente is home to a variety of species of monkeys, birds, anteaters, armadillos, four species of cats, and birds, including toucans and Nicaragua’s national bird - the motmot. Also of note, between July and December each year, Olive Ridley turtles arrive to the area by the hundreds of thousands to lay their eggs on the beach. This is not to be missed!
Entry Fee: $10USD
Visit the El Astillero Fishing Village
For a taste of local culture, take a ride over to the fishing village of El Astillero (location) where you can witness local fisherman dragging in their catch from the boats. You’re also welcome to buy fish and lobster right from the fisherman. The daily catch usually includes lobster, wahoo, pargo (red snapper), sierra mackeral, and yellowtail.
ATMs in Popoyo
Short answer: there are none. Or there weren’t as recently as June 2023. Pair that with the fact that Popoyo is mostly a cash-only town with a few rare exceptions, it’s easy to run out of cash fast. Here are your options:
Nearest ATM from Popoyo
The nearest ATM is located inside of Plaza Riviera de Tola near the gates of Hacienda Iguana, about a 20-minute drive from Popoyo and usually a $20USD roundtrip fare by taxi from Popoyo.
Cashback at Ocean Market
Another option, though not guaranteed, is to do cashback at Ocean Market (Popoyo location + Guasacate location). There’s one on both Popoyo beaches. They do charge a fee on top that I believe is around 8%.
PayPal
A few spots will accept PayPal as payment, mainly at restaurants. Again, this is not guaranteed. Better to have a healthy supply of cash to last you your entire stay.
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