Before you book the pousada, before you pin the surf spot, before you learn how to pronounce acarajé, there are a few things you should know about Bahia, the northeast Brazilian state that’s at the epicenter of Afro-Brazilian culture.

Inspired by a moving novel and not my own foot tracks (for once), I’ve crafted this guide to Latvia and Riga as a way to supply some much-needed context to Latvia for those visiting, but also for those who may never get there.