A week was hardly enough at this surf and yoga retreat on Bahia’s coast. Read about what it was like, from the waves to the daily yoga, plant-based meals around the same table with the other guests, and afternoon excursions for fresh açai and sundowners by the mangroves.

Trying to decide where to stay on the Peninsula de Maraú? During my time exploring this stretch of Bahia’s coast, I stayed in five different pousadas and retreats across Algodões, Cassange, Taipu de Fora, and Barra Grande. Here’s what each one is like—and which travelers they’re best for.

The Maraú Peninsula is one of those rare places that still beats by the rhythm of nature, not noise and too many tourists. Here’s a guide to where to stay, what to do, and where to find the best bite or beachside bed in this precious paradise in South Bahia.

Before you book the pousada, before you pin the surf spot, before you learn how to pronounce acarajé, there are a few things you should know about Bahia, the northeast Brazilian state that’s at the epicenter of Afro-Brazilian culture.