From Moreré’s natural pools and mangroves teeming with bioluminescence and aratu crabs to sustainable stays and local heritage, this Boipeba travel guide is the perfect first step to visiting Brazil’s car-free paradise responsibly.

I spent three weeks exploring every inch of Itacaré so you don’t have to waste a day of your stay. Here’s what I discovered from best bites to beaches, surf schools, and parts of town to stay.

A week was hardly enough at this surf and yoga retreat on Bahia’s coast. Read about what it was like, from the waves to the daily yoga, plant-based meals around the same table with the other guests, and afternoon excursions for fresh açai and sundowners by the mangroves.

The Maraú Peninsula is one of those rare places that still beats by the rhythm of nature, not noise and too many tourists. Here’s a guide to where to stay, what to do, and where to find the best bite or beachside bed in this precious paradise in South Bahia.